For the last few years, these wines have been strictly allocated.
The last vintage was sold out just weeks after its release. It was not so long ago that we could choose which vintage we preferred – that’s now a distant memory.
The success is built on Emilio Bulfon’s absolute devotion to the recovery and revival of ancient indigenous vines from his region.
Many vines were found in the original vineyards when the property was purchased in the 60s and, with the invaluable assistance of the wine school of Conegliano, the vines were identified and propagated from.
The ‘laboratory’ vineyard was home to hundreds of varieties and each year students of the Conegliano Wine School would set demijohns of juice fermenting on any available floor space.
These decades of creativity and experimentation have now paid off. Now the emphasis is less on experimentation and more on the development of the wines. Exciting times!
Historically, different varieties were planted mixed within the vineyards.
Bulfon has deconstructed and recreated his vineyards, planting grape types according to the most suitable site.
The cellar is immaculate and equipped with modern steel tanks, large oak barrels (4,000ltr) and with barriques for the sweet and reserve wines. The quantity of wine produced is modest, the number of different wines is ambitious, but understandable – a wine is made from out of each individual variety.
All in all, the unique nature of the vineyard is hard to ignore.
As well as the mono-varietals, there are two sparkling wines from Sciaglìn, a cuvée of Ucelùt (and sometimes Cividìn) called Blanc de Rugel and a cuvée which incorporates most of the red varieties plus the more ubiquitous Refosco del Peduncolo Rosso called ‘Pecòl Ròs.
The Piculìt Neri has undergone changes, as since 2010 it has been aged in 4,000 litre botti (it used to be in steel). The improvements are marked and Bulfon has put a lot of faith in this variety.
Ironically for an estate that is so devoted to their wines, it is the label that draws many people.
It was designed by Bulfon himself and was inspired by a medieval fresco of the Last Supper in the church of Santa Maria dei Battuti in Valeriano.
The bottles can look similar to each other, but I assure you the wines are not, they are vibrant reflections of ancient grapes which have a contemporary appeal.